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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.